Entries in locs (4)

Tuesday
Jan102012

My Personal Spiritual Relationship with My Locs

 

Foo foo new agey disclaimer! I've been going through a lot over the past year and finally emotionally crashed and burned. I apologize for the YouTube and blog disappearing act and appreciate all the understanding comments to my video channel.. Looking in the mirror, I am struck by how much I can see my emotions in my locs. Previously, I would shave my head when faced with so much upheaval. This is the first time, I haven't shaved my loc's as my life fell apart around me. Honestly, this is the first time I haven't felt the urge to and it's odd. People say, "it's just hair" but for me... loc's are so much more.

A old friend of mine told me once, she didn't feel her loc's held emotion but rather they acted as some sort of antennae allowing her to release energy and be more sensitive to the world around her. For my past loc's, I always felt they held energy, emotion and experiences. Often, when someone touches my loc's without asking I can feel that hand on my hair for several hours. I couldn't wrap my head around her experiences at all.

Even before I had locs cutting my hair felt empowering and feeing. The first time I went bald was after a difficult evening with an ex that left me feeling lost and broken. I was 17 and walked down Market street to Walgreens to purchase my first set of hair clippers. I brought them home determined. Standing in the mirror I prayed I wouldn't have a funny shaped head like the poor guy at school who went from a flat top to a close fade fail. Nervously, I clipped a few inches of bra strap length afro. It looked like dark wool floating into the sink. A few inches at a time, over and over until... I stared in the mirror at the slightest stubble.

For a moment I just admired it and then I grabbed my razor. I still remember the sound of the razor on my head that first time. It makes me warm and crave the feeling of freedom I felt when I was done. I looked pretty I thought. Of course, my head needed a tan and ran downstairs and after a quick trip to the pool, I ended up with a pigeon pooping on my freshly shaved and sunburnt scalp lmao.

Right now, my locs are frizzier than usual. My scalp is sore and they are proofed out. It looks almost as if they are taking all the emotion and pain in my head and holding it, away from me. On days I am happy, my locs naturally frame my face more and hug closer to my head. Yeah, I know it sounds nuts. But when people ask if I am Rastafarian and I say no. I am Buddhist but that doesn't mean I don't have a spiritual tie to my locs. It doesn't mean I don't wrap my locs when the environment feels damaging or the essence of me-ness feels weak. It just means, I listen to me and pray a pigeon doesn't poop on my head.

 

 

Monday
Oct172011

10 Tips for Preventing & Treating Thinning Locs and Dreadlocks

Thinning hair is an equal opportunity problem. When you first notice thinning hair, visit a dermatologist familiar with black hair. While, thinning is commonly due to styling pressures, there are serious medical conditions that need to be ruled out. Hormonal disorders, Eating disorders, Thyroid disease, Anxiety, Ringworm, Autoimmune conditions, Tumors, and Anemia can all cause hair loss. While most of these disorders can be treated, some lead to permanent baldness if left untreated and others may be deadly.

Traction Alopecia, hair loss from pressure, is easier to prevent than treat. The longer you experience Traction Alopecia, the higher your risk of permanent damage to the follicles leading to baldness. Locs are heavy at longer lengths putting pressure on the crown and front of your hair line. Tight styling can add addition pressure.

10 tips for Preventing and Treating Thinning Locs

1) Don't twist, palm roll or latch your locs too tight. Tight maintenance can cause thinning and bald spots throughout your hair. 

2) Trim your locs with an angled cut. A 45 degree cut releases pressure from the crown while maintaining a long look. Here is a video of me doing a 45 degree cut on myself.

Damianjw84 explains how it works on long locs.

3) You don't have to avoid cute styles! Add a pompadour or basket weave to the front of a ponytail. When creating updos or flat twisting hold the hair away from the scalp to make them looser. 

4) Speak up. Locticians often create tight styles so they last longer. If your head hurts when you leave your stylists chair, ask for a looser updo or curl set. While your styles won't last as long, your hair will. 

5) Take a break from color. It is possible to be allergic to hair dye and hair dye can cause breakage. Take a break and if it helps with your thinning, switch brands or adjust how you care for your color treated hair.

6) Change your style often. Frequently changing your style, rotates pressure to different areas of your scalp. If you wear a ponytail Monday, try an updo on Tuesday, braids on Thursday and waves the rest of the week!

7) Eat real food. Any nutritional deficiency can cause hair to grow slower and thinner. Eat a variety of vegetables including several different colors each day to ensure you get enough vitamins. Protein is important! Include meat, fish and fowl. If you're vegetarian, make sure you eat beans, greens and lots of iron rich foods. Lastly, don't be afraid of good fats rich in Omega-3's and medium chain saturated fats. Fish and coconut oils are great for your hair.

8) Try some MSM in your coffee. No, it won't make your hair grow faster but what it does do is more interesting. It appears to lengthen the growth cycle of your hair and improve brilliance while you're taking it. Make sure your MSM is pure and you are taking a sufficient amount.

9) Massage your scalp. Massaging your scalp is relaxing. Gently massage with your fingers or try loc bushing to distribute natural oils and increase blood flow. Here are two videos on loc brushing:

10) Make sure your locs are the right size. If your locs are too big for your hair type, the weight will put too much pressure on your scalp. If your locs are too thin, there isn't enough base to maintain the length. A good loctician will be able to tell you what size your scalp and hair can handle, even if it's not the size you want. Think about combining your locs or growing a smaller set if needed.

What are some of your tips for thinning locs and dreadlocks?

 

Monday
Oct102011

Why I broke up with Dr. Bronners

The first time I used Dr. Bronner's in my locs was with my 1st set. At first, my locs felt clean and alive. Gradually over several months that changed. They became dry, lifeless and dull looking. 

With my 3rd set of locs. In addition to becoming dull and dry, my scalp disorder exploded. I figured it was the natural twisting gels, so I started freeforming. Still, my scalp was horrific. Next, I quit all oils... my scalp still burned, flaked and was bright red. When I started using dandruff shampoos between Dr. Bronner's... my scalp got a little better but not completely, so I cut my locs. Eventually I ran out of Dr. Bronners and my scalp got significantly better. 

What was going on? First a brief explanation of why pH is important to skin and hair care. Davis-Sivasothy states "The skin and scalp have Acid Mantles with pHs in the 4 to 5.5 range. This acid mantle is more important for the skin were it acts as a barrier to viruses, bacteria and other undesirable contaminants that may try to enter the body" (45). Fungus is a significant player in dandruff as we are covered in fungus and bacteria. When it grows beyond normal... we get skin infections.

Proper Ph also keeps the cuticles of the hair closed to maintain moisture. When pH is too acidic or too Base the hair will break down. A pH between 3 and 4 closes cuticles, making hair shiny, and retain moisture and haircolor better. A pH above 7 causes hair strands swell and cuticles lift. This will make hair dry, rough and damaged. The higher the PH the more damaged the hair can become until it actually melts. 

Is there any time you want to lift cuticles? Sure, most hair color have a ph around 8. In exchange for color, you are accepting damage. Relaxers break down the hair strands to make them straight and they start with a PH around 10 or 11. Heat also opens cuticles; low heat it isn't as drastic as high heat and damage is minimal. The reason many protein treatments use heat, is to open the cuticles and allow penetration. What does this have to do with natural soap? 

Natural soap has a PH of 9. In my experience, Castile and natural bar soaps over time, can cause dryness and even affect the texture of hair. In addition, soap reacts with hard water leaving mineral deposits (soap scum) on the hair (and shower doors). Who has hard water? 85% of us. 

Baking Soda (ph 8.1) and Bentonate Clay (ph 9.1) have similar problems. Now, I color my hair but I do it every 6-8 weeks. I recognize the damage my locs incur. Trim them and do protein treatments to compensate. I know that I am damaging my hair. If someone chooses to use soap or clay on their locs, an educated decision is important. Often natural is better, except when it's not. I've included a short list of resources for you to begin your own research as you decide how important pH is to you.

 

Davis-Savasothy, Audry. The Science of Black Hair: A Comprehensive Guild to Texture Hair Care. Stafford: Saja Publishing Company, 2011. Print

Resources

Wiki Page on Hard water

Hair Crazy Well researched post on PH

KimmayTube 4 part Series


Tuesday
Oct042011

Isaiah Mustafa: Do men really hate natural hair?

“My husband hates my big chop”

“Black men don’t look at me anymore”

“What’s with all these white men!”

     I’ve heard it for years and chances are you have too. When the Isaiah Mustafa controversy came out this week my head hurt. Seems Mr. Old Spice wants a woman with “good hair” so his kids won’t be “nappy”. My twitter was about to track him down and I’m sure he’s quivering in a witness protection as we speak.

     Of course he wants a woman with “good hair.” He’s probably spent his entire childhood watching his mother fight her hair. I challenge black women to think about how they considered natural hair when they were flat ironing 5 cm of re-growth peaking through a perm. I won’t chock his statements up to personal preference, but rather conditioning. Most black men were raised by black mothers, grandmothers, neighbors and aunties. Many times women will chastise female children to sit still and take the burning, while a male child is watching from the hall. Action speak...

     I remember an article I read a few years ago in the NY Times. It was about the slow rate men’s fashion changes compared the women and how that affected designers. I can’t find the article, but if you find it PLEASE post the link in the comment section. A study found that by early 20’s, the way a man dressed tended to stay the same until they neared 45. This is perfectly demonstrated by my 40 year old boyfriend with hair to his butt and all black wardrobe including boots with shorts… yeah, I know (but he’s so cute!).

     Every single time I’ve changed my hair in any way he has hated it for a month before falling in love with it. “I hate that color” he’ll say. Yet, 8 weeks later he’ll say, “don’t change that color.” I’ve had the same experience with haircuts, hair styles and yes… locs, twa’s etc with various men in my life. I don’t think black men are anti-natural hair. I think MEN are anti-change and relaxed hair is the norm for black women, taught by women and reinforced by society. As more women go natural, the norm will change and they will see natural hair are normal and beautiful.

     We look pretty with our natural hair. I am fond of saying, big hips, butts, lips and eyes need big hair to set it off. Our hair usually flatters our features, it's soft and fingers sink into it like a pile of silk thread. Other races of men see this because they haven't been taught otherwise. Do your hair for you. When you struggle, look around to see who's watching. As for the men, they will sort it out on their own.

 

Quotidianlight